Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Mecca


Bali is the mecca of waves and we are the pilgrims. 

Map of Bali Surf Spots
Bali contains 3% of the world’s top 100 waves according to a recent edition of Surfer magazine.  That is an amazing statistic considering the amount of coastline the world has to offer and the small size of Bali’s coastline in comparison. 

If you wonder why we have such a fascination with waves, consider our backgrounds.  We all have taken various dynamic courses that rigorously detail the formulas of waves including their amplitude, type, and dispersion relationships.  Oceanic waves are the only waves that are of comparable size to humans and of a substance that allows such intimate interactions like surfing (as opposed to sound waves, gravity waves, seismic waves, etc.). Surfing is the ultimate hands on science experiment for those interested in fluid dynamics, and Bali is one of the best surfing destinations. 


Echo Beach / Canggu

After arriving at Denpasar airport, we took a taxi ride to the hotel that was more thrilling than most amusement park rides.  The roads are beyond congested, and it is not frowned upon to have several generations of family from infants to elderly riding the same moped through town.  Under the cover of night we were dropped at Echoland Bed and Breakfast on the western coast of Bali.  The next morning we had breakfast on the rooftop patio with a view of the ocean.  It doesn’t cost much to live like a highroller in Bali.

The waves at Echo Beach were mildly disappointing given the reputation.  As faithful pilgrims though, we remained strong and relished every wave the ocean offered.  Most nights we lounged at restaurants overlooking the beach and enjoyed the local dishes of Nasi Goreng (fried rice) and Satay (grilled pork, steak, and chicken).  If you want a more detailed review of the food, James would be happy to inform you. 


Aside from the lacking waves, we met Harris at the hotel.  Harris has lived in Perth, Australia for 8 years but is from Florida.  Owen also joined us on the second night at the bed and breakfast and enlightened us with his Australian accented “Owenisms”. They both happily joined our search for the 3%.


Uluwatu

Echo Beach was hard to leave but the pilgrimage for waves took precedent over the lap of luxury.  We journeyed to Uluwatu, Bali (southern tip).  We stayed at a hotel called The Gong that is equidistant from the surf breaks of Uluwatu and Nyang Nyang. 

The Gong

 Our wave pilgrimage would not be without trials.  Like Echo Beach, Uluwatu was also starved for waves and Harris cracked his head in the pool.  He opted out of stitches in favor of more natural healing means, the glorious water of Bali well-known for it’s ability to produce staff infections.  Dirt roads, mud pits, and live coral were traversed to no avail.  No waves. No fluid dynamic interactions.  Nothing.  But as pilgrimages go, persistence is key.  The walk to Uluwatu to check the break was encouraging even though the waves were lackluster.



Legian

After being skunked for waves, we drowned our sorrows in the tourist culture around Kuta.  Legian beach, near Kuta, is not particularly known for its waves.   So instead of surfing, James, Gavin, Harris, and Owen all bungee jumped while I occupied the videographer position. In fact, one bungee jump was not enough.  They each did it twice. 


We managed our depression regarding mediocre waves by haggling with the locals for bags, t-shirts, jewelry, etc.  Because it was currently the off/rainy season in Bali, we got a resort style hotel room for less than half the normal rate.  Yes, you can even haggle with resorts. EVERYTHING is negotiable in Bali.  The last morning we got up at six in desperate hopes that our pilgrimage would not end in despair.  Surely, our patience would be rewarded.  We begrudgingly walked to the nearest beach break in desperate hopes of waves before our flight at noon.  This is what we found……

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